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Caught in an extreme showdown at the Pakistan Border. | Captain and Clark Our parents would have killed us if we told them what we had planned when we reached the town of Amristar in northern India.  Thirty minutes from town is the India-Pakistan border.  In any other case, we would have stayed as far away as possible.  If it wasn’t for a friend who had visited a ...
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Caught in an extreme showdown at the Pakistan Border.

Our parents would have killed us if we told them what we had planned when we reached the town of Amristar in northern India.  Thirty minutes from town is the India-Pakistan border.  In any other case, we would have stayed as far away as possible.  If it wasn’t for a friend who had visited a few months prior, we would have no idea what happens at the border as soon as the sun begins to set.  Our intrigue got the best of us and we just couldn’t stay away.

Hearing of this special ceremony, we knew we couldn’t miss it.  We didn’t dare tell our friends or families that we were going to willingly march ourselves to the Pakistan border.  We could already hear the sighs of disapproval and the lectures we would receive.  Being the curious travelers that we are, we knew we’d have to tell them all the details long after we returned from our adventure.

We hired a driver to take us the thirty miles to the Attari-Waggah border.  Once we arrived we were met with a throng of Indian nationals who were also showing up for the intriguing event.  Food was being sold on the roadside along with Indian flags, patriotic Indian visors, and DVDs of the event itself.  A few children had fake tattoos of the Indian flag on their faces and were trying to sneakily capture of pictures of Chris, the tall white American.

Like most places in India, there was a foreigner line that separated us from the locals.  It was significantly shorter and we were happy to be escorted to some of the best seats in the house.  As the sun began to set, we were led to the border gate where the VIP (read:foreigner) seating was.  There were grandstands on either side of the road that lead to the gate and they were quickly filling up with Indian spectators.  Music began to blare from hidden speakers and the stands began to shake from all the people that started to cheerfully dance to the Slumdog Millionaire soundtrack.

Ceremony at Pakistan Border

None of this hullabaloo was what I expected to see at the Pakistan border.  It seemed like we were gearing up for an NFL football game, not an intense showdown between the two countries.  As the song “Jai Ho” came to an end, an MC appeared and began to calm down the crowd.  Once we were seated, a line of flamboyantly dressed border guards appeared.  Looking as stoic as ever, one approached the microphone that was on a pedestal in front of the crowd.  He looked like he was about to march off to war.  He took one deep, long breath and… well, take a look for yourself


He let out one prolonged yell!  He screamed into the microphone for what seemed like ages.  What I thought was an echo was actually a border patrol officer from the Pakistan side.  They were having a glorified scream off.

If that wasn’t bizarre enough, the immense showcase of bravado that followed was almost unbelievable.  High kickin’ border patrolmen hightailed it to the border fence.  Once there, they would stare down their Pakistan opponents as they slowly lowered their nation’s flag.  A kick would be thrown out here and there over enthusiastic screams and chants from both countries audiences.

The entire ceremony only lasted for about half and hour, but the people watching beforehand made it worth our while to arrive early.  If you ever find yourself in Amritsar be sure to check out this unique ceremony between two unique countries.  You won’t see anything else like it in the world.



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  1. Angela
    January 21, 2013 at 9:17 pm - Reply

    How cool is this! The amount of people is incredible. Every time I read something like this I’m amazed by how much there is that I don’t know about.
    Angela recently posted…Perfect picture: White horse penis Rượu thuốcMy Profile

  2. @mrsoaroundworld
    January 22, 2013 at 8:49 am - Reply

    Wow, never heard of this before but certainly sounds interesting. Were you scared at any stage?
    @mrsoaroundworld recently posted…A lux weekend in Paris with @AvenueStoryMy Profile

  3. The World Wanderer
    January 22, 2013 at 3:16 pm - Reply

    Yet another reason to head to India! This is perhaps the greatest thing I have ever seen. Thrilled it happens every night, I will definitely be adding this to my list of things to do in India.

  4. D.J. - The World of Deej
    January 22, 2013 at 3:48 pm - Reply

    Wow…crazy stuff! I had no idea they did this, and it definitely seems a bit odd given the contentious relationship between the two countries.
    D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted…Disney’s Contemporary Resort – Check-In FloridaMy Profile

  5. John
    January 22, 2013 at 5:36 pm - Reply

    This is hilarious. If I was one of those border guards I would be exhausted having to do this everyday just to close a gate.

  6. Kieu ~ GQ trippin
    January 23, 2013 at 12:51 am - Reply

    That’s crazy!! We had no idea when we were there otherwise I would have liked to see this.
    Kieu ~ GQ trippin recently posted…I’m 30!!My Profile

  7. Wandergirl
    January 23, 2013 at 6:29 am - Reply

    Am I being punked? Haha – that’s amazing. I can’t believe they do that every night. When I eventually go to India I’ll have to keep this secret from my mother too…haha.
    Wandergirl recently posted…The Oaxaca Diaries: October 21, 2012My Profile

  8. Francesca
    January 23, 2013 at 10:02 am - Reply

    So wait, this is done every night?! Wow! What a display! I laughed at Chris’s commentary throughout the video… the guards “threaten to kick themselves in the face”. Ha!
    Francesca recently posted…How I went from a backpacker to an RV camperMy Profile

  9. thelazytravelers
    January 23, 2013 at 10:19 am - Reply

    this is so interesting! another must to add to the bucket list, fo sho.
    thelazytravelers recently posted…travel announcement: vegas, baby!My Profile

  10. Amanda
    January 23, 2013 at 6:22 pm - Reply

    This is TOO funny! I was literally laughing out loud at times. Especially at the flag-lowering part. I don’t blame you guys at all for breaking your promises to see this!
    Amanda recently posted…Highlights of Belize and GuatemalaMy Profile

  11. Puru
    January 23, 2013 at 11:44 pm - Reply

    It is mostly symbolic. Moreover this border gate lies in Punjab, the land of vibrant and often loud celebrations, so do not be surprised 🙂
    Puru recently posted…The Sadhu in HampiMy Profile

  12. Traveling Ted
    January 24, 2013 at 7:40 pm - Reply

    I first heard of this spectacle from a video on Nomadic Samuel’s site, but his commentary, if there was one, pales in comparison to the Captain’s. This is what is awesome about travel blogs. I am sure you inspired or will inspire, hundreds of travelers to see this event. If those high kickers ever need a second income, they should look into NFL punting.
    Traveling Ted recently posted…Exploring Huelva and the Doñana National ParkMy Profile

  13. Raul (@ilivetotravel in Twitter)
    January 25, 2013 at 7:00 am - Reply

    This is both hilarious and ridiculous but how fun to witness! Your reporting on it though was the best part – love the commentary! The whole thing “borders” (sic) on the absurd. No wait, it is just absurd! But I have just become very jealous of you getting to see it in person!
    Raul (@ilivetotravel in Twitter) recently posted…The Highlights of Food and Wine in 2012. Mostly Food.My Profile

  14. Bobbi Lee Hitchon
    January 25, 2013 at 10:14 am - Reply

    You guys are legends. Great post!
    Bobbi Lee Hitchon recently posted…The first day of the rest of your life in Big Sur, CaliforniaMy Profile

  15. Craig Zabransky
    January 25, 2013 at 1:33 pm - Reply

    this is by far your best video, it is award winning. amazing. and i agree, you will open this to the eyes of many travelers… wow, it is such a great big amazing world. hopefully your parents are glad you visited now…

    stay adventurous, Craig
    Craig Zabransky recently posted…Punta Cana – An All-Inclusive Beach Town in the DominicanMy Profile

  16. Leah Travels
    January 28, 2013 at 6:11 am - Reply

    Shut up! This is so cool. I love the video, too.
    Leah Travels recently posted…My Four Must-Dos Prior to International TravelMy Profile

  17. Pola (@jettingaround)
    January 29, 2013 at 12:15 am - Reply

    Almost too good to be true… 😮 🙂
    Pola (@jettingaround) recently posted…Photo of the Week: Golden Gate Bridge & Crissy FieldMy Profile

  18. Atika Quraishi
    February 6, 2013 at 11:34 pm - Reply

    how amazing it is, isn’t it? as a Indian the ceremony at wagga is patriotic and make us feel like Indian… Proud to be Indian !!

    • Captain & Clark
      February 7, 2013 at 12:43 am - Reply

      It was a huge pleasure for us to see it. Tawny wanted nothing else from the whole trip.

  19. Michael
    February 17, 2013 at 9:56 am - Reply

    “None of this hullabaloo was what I expected to see at the Pakistan border.” Why? Because people Pakistan are not humans? They like to watch a good show and live life, just as much as the next person…

    • Captain & Clark
      February 17, 2013 at 8:56 pm - Reply

      Oh, on the contrary! What we meant by that statement was that a bizarre show of bravado was not what we expected to be greeted with at the border between India and Pakistan.

  20. Hannah @ GettingStamped
    July 8, 2014 at 6:47 am - Reply

    Crazy fun! I might have to lie to my parents to and go check this out!

  21. Faizan Saleem
    August 22, 2014 at 2:41 am - Reply

    You are most welcome to come and Visit Pakistan.

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